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Alpamayo, Huascaran National Park

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Mountain Nature / Park
Alpamayo, Allpamayu or Shuyturahu is one of the most conspicuous peaks in the Cordillera Blanca of the Peruvian Andes. It is named after the river Allpamayu which originates northwest of it.It is a steep, almost perfect pyramid of ice, one of a number of peaks that compose the Pukarahu massif, the northernmost massif of the Cordillera Blanca. Although smaller than many of its neighboring peaks, it is distinguished by its unusual formation and overwhelming beauty. It actually has two sharp summits, North and South, separated by a narrow corniced ridge.On July 1966, on the German magazine "Alpinismus", a photo made by American photographer Leigh Ortenburger, came together with an article resulting from an international survey among climbers, photographers, etc., making the choice for Alpamayo as "The Most Beautiful Mountain in the World".Climbing history and routesMost popular routes start from the village of Caraz, on the north of the Cordillera Blanca. A French-Belgian expedition including George and Claude Kogan claimed to have made the first ascent in 1951. After studying the photos in George Kogan's book The Ascent of Alpamayo, the German team of G. Hauser, F. Knauss, B. Huhn & H. Wiedmann came to the conclusion that the 1951 team did not reach the actual summit, thereby making their ascent via the north ridge in 1957 the first.The most common climbing route, known as the Ferrari route, is situated on the southwest face of the mountain. It was opened in 1975 by a group of Italian alpinists led by Casimiro Ferrari. It is considered a difficult climb, demanding good crampon and ice-climbing technique. There are incomparable views of steep ice faces, penitentes, gigantic white walls and ridges like those of Huandoy Norte, Artesonraju and Huascaran Norte, similar to the finest of the Himalayan scenery. There are also at least six other alternative climbing routes, the second most popular being the Vasque-French route.
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  • Alpamayo is a famous mountain in the central Andes, in the Caraz area, as part of the Cordillera Blanca. It's dubbed to be the most beautiful mountain in the world,as result of a survey that took plac...  more »
  • One of the classic climbs and sought after summits in the climbing world. It has been on my list for a number of years and this year I had the opportunity to go and attempt it via the classic French D...  more »
  • Mount Alpamayo is undeniably the jewel of the Cordillera Blanca - renowned worldwide for the beauty of its near-perfect pyramid of ice. Since winning ‘The World’s Most Beautiful Mountain’ photography ...  more »